Thursday 7 April 2011

THE FRENCH RIVERIA – THE LIFE OF GLAMOUR . . .

My life in France, well in Cannes to be particular has centred much around Boulevard Republique, a removed unknown road, but still one of the main ones; it is, the road that I come in contact with nearly on a daily basis, with any errands that need doing, or any places that need to be reached – for me, it connects the centre of Cannes (and more importantly the closest route to the beach), and my outlet for the transport: the train and bus station. This is where I have my local Kebab takeaway (there is more than a handful to choose from), and the bakery, butchery, and my supermarket is all along this road. Moreover, it is nearly entirely North African, and sometimes I can be the only white person walking down the road, and no-one pays attention to me what so ever. At midnight, when the streets are sparsely populated, still I’m not noticed – packed or empty! They just go about their day, smoking on the side-walks outside the convenience store or the laundry-mat or anywhere and everywhere to be honest. An older classier lot smoke outside at coffee tables, the few restaurants that are able to fit tables in the vicinity as the side-walks are tiny, another characteristic of this road. The narrow side-walks mean, I’m constantly dodging people, over-taking the old people (that could be dead as they move so slow), while avoiding big groups of North African males though they couldn’t care less about me, but that is why I avoid them so I don’t bump into them! It is away from the glamour on both sides, on the one side up upon the hills of Cannes are the beautiful expensive houses tucked away in their exclusivity, (the higher you go the more expensive the home). While on the other side is Cannes centre, the glamorous Croissette filled with luxury stores (such as Burberry), posh beach-side restaurants and massive hotels (like the famous Carlton). Also the iconic Palais de Festival is along here (the venue which hosts many business conferences but more importantly for the city, the famous Cannes film festival)! Republique and where I live divides these two different so-called havens, the mountain and the beach, as Republique is that part of Cannes you don’t read about in guide books or see in the travel programmes – but my ‘local’ everyday spot! I’ve been living in Cannes since October, and up until now this region has been quite slow and recluse, as in the winter months not a lot happens. It is a summer place, which tremendously changes from (now on in), as the city becomes more populates by tourists flocking from all over. Already from now (the start of April) more activity has begun, as the streets are fuller, but also the events are on their way: the Cannes film festival, the Monaco Grand Prix, the Monte Carlo Tennis Masters, while the bars, restaurants, and beaches of the region are going to be buzzing (up until September)! You have the famous St Tropez for example along the coast further West that is known as the hang-out spot for the rich and famous, whereas Monaco actually houses the rich elite in the far south-east of France right by the Italian border. Nonetheless in the off season there has been things to do, such as visiting Grasse where 70% of the world’s perfume is cultivated. I’ve visited famous towns which have been immortalised in cinema history, such as the bridge at Eze village (shown in Hitchcock’s to Catch a thief), Cap d’Antibes (where Picasso resided for sometime), while writer F Scott. Fitzgerald lived in St Raphael, and all along the coast there have been incredibly famous fashion shoots such as Bridgette Bardot who immortalized the beaches of Cannes with her famous photos from 1953. This is the Cote d’Azur which stretches a long way along this magnificent coast; the gem of France representing fun and recreation where the wealthy and famous have homes such as Elton John’s holiday home (near Nice) and Johnny Depp lives with his family somewhere in the region (my friend spotted him on his first day here). What's more, retirees from all over the world flock here, the region has 163 different nationalities who settle in this perfect place to end their new lives. The biggest city in this region is Nice (and the fifth biggest in France), it is where I had my biggest hub of social activity, as it housed the largest group of fellow English assistants in the Alpes Maritimes Provence. Here, much action and activity occurred. It personified the up-and-down stay the assistants had in France. Where some had their wallets stolen, others were attacked, one was even raped! It has been a topsy turvy adventure for many, with some discovering it takes months to receive a debit card from a French bank; others having their power switched off for weeks at a time; and others having to fight at many meetings with their land-lord to get their deposit back. This region is much different to the rest of France, the life here is slower more relaxed and more dodgy as well! Frenchmen from the north and west that I have spoken to, say people here are lazy and generally have a bad reputation in France. Well I have definitely seen some of this! Nice being largest metropolitan in the area represents this, with its dark under-belly, as for example foreign girls (I’ve known) have been too scared to walk home by themselves. For obvious reasons, two Americans I’m in contact with have had to been hospitalized after incidents with men late at night, therefore the gentleman (I am of course), walked many a lady home in the early hours of the morning when the time called for it. Much of the troubles the assistants had with these Nice residents were with North Africans; my experiences had been mainly positive though, I befriended three cultured intelligent Morrocan lads, and all the North Africans I taught at my school were pleasant and well-behaved. Nonetheless, particularly the girls in Nice were very suspect of these groups of men. The only time I was weary was when I was on the back of my friend’s scooter and these dudes were weaving in and out around us and coming really close – the driving was really horrific! Or when security had to remove a man on the train, who was abusing my friend and I in a dialect of what could only be described as Arabian-French! Maybe they are a sub-group that have been ignored, looked over in the region, as usually they are part of the lower-economic sector (I know assistants that teach large majorities of them in the ‘ghettos’ (as they describe it); they are certainly not part of much of the glitz and glamour that accompanies the region, and perhaps they have been excluded altogether in more ways than one. Whatever the social politics may be, and whatever the struggles others have had, this region is totally incredible, a place which has iconic history and known as a hang-out spot for the rich and famous! For me it has been a treat living here, totally a great experience, and one that I don’t want to end (now summer is on the way), therefore I’m going to do what I can to stay!

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